Short list of minimalist modifications needed to make the AK run like a champ
1. TRIGGER..TRIGGER…TRIGGER
I will never forget what a very dear friend and gunsmith guru said to me many moons ago:
“If you want any gun to be 100% of it’s capability, install a better trigger and you are 75% there”.
I will add a caveat here: I did not change my Arsenal 2 stage triggers; I like them! I did change all my other AK triggers with Red Star Adjustable triggers.
2. Trigger Pin Retainer Plate
This is a very simple modification that will save you *tremendous* headaches down the road as you train and put copious amounts of rounds downrange. This is the one malfunction that can shut an AK down for good in the field. This basically replaces the shepherds crook retaining wire (spring) and is not that tough to install yourself. Everybody sells them, but I prefer Krebs.
3. Muzzle Brake/Flashider
There are a myriad of choices out there, but for pure flash-hiding capability I think Manticore Arms NightBrake and Nightshroud are the best. For a combination Muzzle Brake/Flashider, PWS (Primary Weapon Systems) FSC-47 takes the prize for me.
4. Modern 2 Point Sling
I say “Modern” because the old school Chi-Com or Russian parade slings simply do not have enough length to them to be useful in the field. Plus you need enough length to clear a modern chest rig or vest. The best I have found is the Israeli Kalash Sling; they use aircraft utility wire versus dated and LOUD metal hooks, come in 3 different colors and are tough as hell.
If you decide to run a red dot or other optic, this is the best co-witnessing rail for the money. I have tried just about everything on the market and the Ultimak wins out every time. I am not a fan of quad rails as it makes the gun too heavy, but the Ultimak keeps the minimalist theme, both in design and weight. Sidebar: It has enough rail real estate for an offset light mount and it won’t interfere with your co-witness.
6. Offset Light Mount/Light
I am a believer all your serious “social” guns needs lights on them; the AK being no exception. There is a myriad of mount choices out there, most of them WAY overpriced. I mean seriously, its a billeted piece of Aluminum and you want $70! As far as Lights go, don’t skimp out with a cheapo POS from Wal Mart. Spend some $ on a dependable, bright LED light that is min 70+ lumen or better. Currently I run Surefire, Fenix and Streamlight.
7. Pistol Grip
Improved grip = improves recoil control and most stock AK grips are puny and way too small for American hands. Again, find what fits YOUR hand and go with it. Although I would HIGHLY advise against anything TAPCO, I like the AK SAW Grip, Hogue Soft Grip and the US PALM.
8. Good Mags/Ammo
Though not considered a legitimate “modification”, I wanted to include this because any semi-auto gun is only as good as it’s magazines. The standard Euro steel mags are fine for training, but watch out for deformed feed lips after a while; when that happens, toss them. My GO-TO mags are authentic Russian “Bakelite”, REAL Bulgarian Circle-10’s and US Palm 30’s. For ammo: steel case Wolf is great for drills, but budget for (4) mags (120 rounds) of really high quality Hollow Point or Soft Points for “social problem solving.” I like Corbon DPX and Corbon Hunter, as well as Hornady. Color Code your mags to make it easy in a pinch. I do Blue for Training rounds and Red for “Social problem solving” loads.
