Short list of the minimalist modifications needed to make the AK run like a champ.
1. TRIGGER..TRIGGER…TRIGGER
I will never forget what a very dear friend and gunsmith guru said to me many moons ago: “If you want any gun to be 100% of it’s capability, install a better trigger and you are 75% there”.
I will add a caveat here: I did not change my Arsenal 2 stage triggers…I like them! I did change all my other AK trigger though, and for that I like Red Star Adjustable triggers.
2. Trigger Pin Retainer Plate
This is a very modest modification that will save you tremendous headaches down the road as you train and put alot of rounds downrange. This is the one malfunction that can shut an AK down for good in the field. This basically replaces the shepherds crook retaining wire (spring) and is not that tough to install yourself. Everybody sells them, but I prefer Krebs…make sure to get the right model also, there is one for the Saiga Shotgun and one for the AK Rifle.
3. Muzzle Brake/Flashider
Like everything with Gun’s, if you ask 10 AK people you will get 10 different answers on which is the best..try to find one that give you the best of both worlds..for pure flash-hiding capability I think Manticore Arms NightBrake and Nightshroud are the best products on the Market for AK rifles. For a combination Muzzle Brake and Flashider, PWS (Primary Weapon Systems)’ FSC-47 takes the prize..I have been using one for a while now and it delivers..look for a demo video soon on a night and day shoot I did recently.
4. Modern 2 Point Sling
I say “Modern” because the old school Chi-Com or Russian parade slings simply do not have enough length to them to be useful in the field; plus you need enough length to clear a chest rig or vest. The best I have found is the Israeli Kalash Slings..they use aircraft wire versus metal hooks and come in 3 different colors and are tough as hell.
5. Ultimak Optic Rail
If you decide to run a red dot or other optic, this is the best co-witnessing rail for the money. I have tried just about everything on the market and the Ultimak wins out. I am not a fan of quad rails on the AK anyways, as it makes the gun too heavy and cumbersome but the Ultimak keeps the minimalist theme and delivers on performance. Sidebar: It has enough rail real estate for an offset light mount and it won’t interfere with your co-witness.
6. Offset Light Mount/Light
I am a believer all your serious “social” guns needs lights on them..the AK being no exception. There is a myriad of mount choices out there, some overpriced, so be careful. I mean come on dude, its a billeted piece of Aluminum and you want $70! I have found Impact Weapon Systems to have some decent priced ones. For a light, don’t skimp out with a Wal Mart $4.99, spend some $ on a dependable, bright light, after all, this thing may save your life! 70 lumen or better is a good starting point. I also like LED’s much better than Xenon. I run a Surefire E2 LED and a Fenix P2D currently.
7. Pistol Grip
I debated on even adding this, but I do think an improved grip improves recoil control and most stock AK grips are puny and small IMO for American hands. Again, find what fits your hand and go with it. Although I would HIGHLY advise against anything TAPCO, the AK SAW Grip fits my huge meat hooks nicely as does US PALM.
8. Good Mags/Ammo
Though not considered a legitimate “modification”, I wanted to include this because any semi-auto gun is only as good as it’s mags, and although steel cased Wolf is great for drills, budget for at least 3 mags of really high quality Hollow Points or Soft Points for “social problem solving”. I like Corbon DPX and Corbon Hunter 7.62×39. Hornady also makes some killer loads. The standard Euro steel mags are fine for training, but watch out for deformed feed lips after a while; when that happens, toss them. My GO-TO mags are authentic Russian “Bakelite”, Real Bulgarian Circle-10’s and US Palm 30’s.
Darn good write up! Dang if I didn’t overlook the “Trigger Pin Retainer Plate” in a recent AK. Thanks for the excellent info as always.